Hand And Foot and Reddi-WipWe can't get together without playing marathon sets of Hand and Foot. Hand and Foot is a ton of fun. The object of the game, of course, is to amass a ton of points. Game play goes like this:
Actual play commences starting with the person whose birthday is coming up next. You draw two cards from the stack OR the discard stack itself on each play, and discard one card. You must have varying amounts of points to "meld" (to initially place books or partial books on the table in front of you) based on how many points you currently have.
In this way, it gives those who are behind in scoring a chance to catch up. Before you place cards in front of you the first time, you must meet or exceed your meld point, and the cards must be in sets of at least three.
So, in other words, if your meld point is 50, to lay down your cards initially (to meld), you could lay down a starting book of three Aces (60 points), or three Eights and a two (50 points). In order to pick up the entire discard stack (which is a very advantageous thing to get all those cards), you must have two of the same card in your hand, and you must be able to put the top card on the discard pile out on your meld area. For example, if the top card on the discard pile is a seven, and you have two sevens in your hand, you can pick up the entire stack ONLY if you are able to put those two sevens that are in your hand AND the seven from the top of the discard pile out on your meld. If this is your first time to lay things out on your meld and you can't quite make the meld point, you can't pick up the discard stack. If you are meeting your meld with this discard stack draw, you can ONLY use the top card to assist in making your meld -- you can't rely on any other cards below that in the discard stack. This brings up the "Nan rule", which states that you must leave the entire discard stack separate until you've played out your cards to ensure that you are really eligible for pulling the discard stack. I believe violating the Nan rule costs you 200 points. On each play, you either draw two cards, or pull the discard stack, and then you (if desired and possible) play out cards on your meld stacks. If you draw a red 3, you instantly "declare" it, place it on your meld area (although it doesn't count towards your meld), and draw another card to replace it. You can hold all the cards in your hand for a long time if you want, which gives you the benefit of having more potential to get the discard stack, or you can play them out as you get them. After you have met your meld, you can add cards to your meld area during any of your plays. When you have completed your play, you discard one card. If you discard a black 3, the next person cannot draw the discard stack. Play goes clockwise. You want to play out your hand and get into your foot before someone else "wins" by going out with the four books, because all the cards in your hand and foot count against you (same points as above) in the final reckoning. The point varies as to whether it is required to "declare" that you are into your foot when you reach that point, but play basically continues in the same manner when you have picked up your foot and started playing it after the hand is completed. "Winning" the round doesn't necessarily mean that you made more points -- but it does give you the opportunity to stiff your opponents with cards in their hand. You should watch your opponents and their books carefully to see how closely people are to going out. Books must be displayed in plain site, no hiding allowed. When the round is over, first add up the points you get from the number of clean and dirty books plus red threes that are on your meld area. Then, add up the actual POINT VALUE of all the cards in those complete and partial books on your meld area. Finally, subtract the point value of any cards left in your hand or foot. These are the points for the round. This round, we incorporated some Reddi-Wip spray whipped cream as well...
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